If you have had reason to disconnect or replace the battery on your Lexus GX470, you probably found that the drive’s remote window console controls on the door no longer work for the passenger or rear windows. Luckily there is an easy fix.
Turn the key to the on position
At the remote window press and hold down the window button until the window is completely down. Continue to hold the button down for two (2) seconds.
Remaining at the remote window’s control button, lift the window button and hold it up until the window is fully up. Continue to hold the button up for two (2) seconds.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 at all the other windows.
Test that your remote window control console on the driver’s door. The remote console has re-learned it’s role and can now fully operate all the remote windows. If any of the remote window controls don’t work, go to that window and repeat steps 2 and 3.
This window console reset will also work on most Toyota, Lexus, Honda or Acura vehicles with similar remote window controls.
We love the soft, rock gripping ride you get when you air down big E rated, 10 ply off-road tires. Hate is not too strong a word when we have to inflate the tires back up. We often argue about who’s turn it is to sit next to a tire while our little compressor pumps its brains out to re-inflate the rubber up to highway pressure.
An air tank will make quick work of re-inflating tires but it doesn’t really work for trips like our Baja overland adventure where we were constantly adjusting our tires’ PSI up and down as we moved between asphalt, desert sand, boulder filled dry riverbeds, muddy swamps and beaches.
We knew there had to be answer… it just took eight years of scouring the Internet and talking to other overlander travelers to figure it out!
We decided to build our own automatic tire infator using an adjustable in-line air regulator??!! What is this tire inflator voodoo witchcraft you ask? Add a common air tool inline regulator that lets you set the desired PSI to a tire inflator, hook it up your air compressor and walk away. The regulator will stop the air flow automatically when the tire’s PSI reaches the preset level.
This project took some experimenting before finding what worked best for us. The key is to start by selecting your regulator, then build your parts list off of the port sizes available on your regulator.
NPT references the national pipe thread taper (aka American standard pipe), refers to the size of a connector and the size of the thread on any connector. The thread size is especially important, because non-standard fittings may not provide a full seal, and will allow air to escape from your hose lines and connectors.
A note on hoses before we get started. The hoses with built-in chucks that we tried seemed to come with flimsy chucks that we managed to break in the field, which is why the recommendation below is to purchase a separate hose and separate locking brass chuck.
Air gauge. Many regulators will come with a gauge. We cannibalized an old manual tire inflator for its gauge that fit the regulators 1/8″ NPT port. Just make sure the gauge’s threads match the regulator’s available port and that it registers above your tire’s max PSI.
To start, attach the brass male quick release plug to the input (or intake) side of the regulator.
To the output side (which is all other ports) of the regulator attach your hose. Attach your brass lock-on air chuck to the end of your whip hose.
If you plan to use a gauge, attach it now to an open port on your regulator.
Now following the regulator’s direction, set your regulator to the desired PSI. Depending on the regulator this may take a little trial and error.
With everything assembled, connect your automatic tire inflator to your compressor and test it out on your spare tire to make sure it is stopping at the desired PSI.
That is it!!
Instead of sitting next to each tire for up to 10 minutes, we can now attach our auto-fill tire inflator to our pump, connect the locking chuck to the valve stem, start the compressor and move on to other important things, like checking for trail damage, repacking our recovery kit, changing out of our trail boots, posting a picture to Instagram or just grabbing a soda and sitting in the shade. Gone are the days of sitting next to a tire, up to our ankles in mud while the rain pours down, holding a tire inflator and watching the tire gauge.
An additional benefit of this regulated automatic tire inflator is that all four tires are at the exact same PSI when it stops. No more back and forth to reset pressure all around.
Will this little device change our life… probably not… but it will free up time to get repacked and ensure we are ready to go when our last tire is aired back up.
So you may have noticed some Lexus GX470 discussions from us here and out in the forums… Yes we did it, we added a Lexus GX470 to the fleet. Just not this one.
Why you ask? It’s built on the same J120 Toyota Prado Land Cruiser platform as our FJ Cruiser but with four doors, a bit more room, a whole lot more luxury and a V8 engine. Our new Lexus GX470, affectionately named (by Hula Betty) Fat Girl, will be primarily used for overland adventures and as a daily driver for Hula Betty. She wont get the massive mods we have on the Blue Bunny but she will be getting some upgrades to her suspension and armor.
While Fat Girl will remain stock for now, that doesn’t mean we haven’t started to consider options. One option is the Metal Tech 4×4 rear swing-out bumper known as the Pegasus. Mark over at Metal Tech 4×4 put all their Toyota Land Cruiser experience into creating this bumper. No cutting, no welding, this swing-out bumper fits right into the design of the Lexus GX470 and allows you to carry larger spare tire, fuel cans and your Hi-Lift jack.
And when it comes to installation… Well see for yourself. We put together an installation video to help folks install their Metal Tech 4×4 swing-out bumper on the Lexus GX470 and give us an excuse to get an up close look at the Pegasus.
If you just want the highlights about this bumper than give this introduction video a look. It walks you through some of the key features of this overland bumper.
Around the shop or in camp, light is always at a premium. We always seem to have to work on parts that are tucked into a dark corner of the truck or start prepping camp meals as the sun is dipping below the horizon. Until now the solution was head lamps, flashlights or old fashion trouble light. These light sources are good but they don’t always provide enough light or put it where you want it.
Enter the FLOOD-IT pro LED rechargeable light. This small but powerful free standing flood light has found it’s way into our kit. So what makes it better than all the other 10w LED lights out there?
Compact free standing base with a handle that is easy to grab.
Magnetic feet. Set the light on the ground, stick it to the hood, attach it to the truck frame. This work light makes it easy to stage the unit so it illuminates where you need.
Cordless and rechargeable, lasting up to four hours. The work light comes with an AC adapter and a car charger making it easy to recharge in the shop or while driving to the next camp.
IP65 water and dust protection with a wide 120 degree beam spread.
For us its the compact size, rechargeablility and magnetic feet that make this work light a winner. When on the trail the light sits magneticly tight on the rear floor where we can quickly grab it. In camp we stick it high on the truck and point the light right where we need it most, at the camp kitchen, and cooler.
The FLOOD-IT pro LED light is now a part of our off-road kit and a favorite around the shop. Check out Red Kitty Industries for this and other rechargeable work lights.
Installing a CB Radio in a Toyota FJ Cruiser is an easy do it yourself project. Several years back we installed a Cobra 75 wt CB radio in our truck. Unfortunately back then we didn’t take the time to create a how to video. So when Voodoo Brad asked us to help him install his CB radio we jumped at the chance.
If you follow our step by step instruction for installing a Cobra 75 wt CB radio in a Toyota FJ Cruiser you will need a few other components to install a complete CB system. Below is the parts list we have used on both our Toyota FJ Cruiser CB radio installs:
Toyota OEM cabin filters (and knockoffs) cost between $15 and $20 on the Internet depending on the brand, shipping and who you purchase from. You can make your own for as low as $2.00? It’s crazy but true, you can make your own cabin air filter in minutes with easily available materials.
Stop by the pet store and pick up aquarium filter material, the polyester cut to fit stuff that runs around $6.00 a sheet. You will get a couple of filters from a single package of aquarium filter material. We like using a furnace filter called “Web Absorber”. This statically charged material includes a layer of carbon covered fiber that absorbs odors. While the Absorber will cost between $10 and $20, you will get four of five cabin air filters from one 20″x25″ furnace filter.
Lay out the material on a flat surface you can cut on. Using your old OEM cabin filter as a template, trace it out with a Sharpy onto your filter material and then cut out along your traced lines.
To assemble it, I like to start by laying a dryer sheet into the cabin filter holder. This will add a fresh scent to the air. On top of the dryer sheet lay in the filter material you cut out. If you sized your material right it will fit snugly into filter holder on all sides. Be sure to tuck the filter material under the top tabs of the filter holder.
That is all there is too it. Slide your cabin filter holder back into place and you’re done. You should have plenty of material left over for the next time you need to replace you cabin air filter.
Every try to read a map at night by your dome light? How about trying to find something in your console at night? The Toyota FJ Cruiser OEM dome light may give you a warm glow, but bright light you can read by is not its strength.
One of the easiest FJ Cruiser modifications you can perform that pays big dividends is to replace the interior dome lights with new bright white LED chip-sets.
We picked up a Putco LED Lighting “980018 premium interior dome light kit”. The kit included a pair (one for the front and one for the rear) of LED white light chip-sets. The chip-set fits the original dome light fixture and is designed as a direct bulb replacement. With three LEDs on the chip-set, it puts out approximately 18 times more light than the original bulb, an increase that you can definitely notice.
Start by removing the cover. Using a screwdriver with its tip wrapped in tape, disengage the 4 claws and remove the light’s lens cover.
Remove the old bulb from the socket.
Press the LED chip-set into the bulb socket
Replace the cover.
It really is that easy. Your new dome light(s) will be significantly brighter, use less energy and provide a whiter light.
No this mod wont help you climb over rocks or pull you through gumbo thick mud but it will help you find that last handful of nuts you dropped on the floor of the cab before the three second rule kicks in.
It started out as oil appearing on the inside of rear wheel. Hum, that can’t be good. Ok, a blown oil seal, that is easy enough and just a couple of bucks for a new seal. After changing the seal out it was much better, but not perfect and in a few days it was clear something wasn’t exactly right. Did I screw up the seal when I put it in? Is the breather clogged and building up pressure that blows the seal? God I hope it’s not the bearing.
After checking the breather to ensure good air flow and changing the seal one more time for good measure, it was clear we’d need a little professional help and turned to our friends at Auburn Car Repair & Offroad to replace the wheel bearing.
In order to change the rear wheel bearing, you need to pull the axle, apply 20+ tons of pressure to separate the bearing from the axle and than push the new bearing on. But aside from machinist magic of replacing the bearing, most folks can perform a majority of the work involved.
After getting the axle in the air and removing the wheel, start by unplugging the the ABS sensor wire. Remove the bolts that hold the disk brakes housing and carefully set it aside. Tip: if you cut the top of the clip holding the brake hose in place you can slide the hose out without disconnecting it from the hardline and avoid having to bleed the brakes later.
Pulling the brake disk (rotor) may take a few soft raps with a plastic mallet to loosen rust’s grip in order to slide if off. With the disk removed the parking brake is exposed. There are springs top and bottom that hold everything together. The top springs are under a good deal to tension and will require work to lift them off of the stud. Once the springs are released, the shoe hold down springs can be removed along with the brake shoes and other parts. The best advice here, slow down, take your time and ensure you keep track of all the parts.
The parking brake cable needs to be removed before the #1 shoe can be completely removed.
Remove are four nuts holding the axle (the wheel bearing housing actually) to the axle housing. Grab a shop rag and slide the axle straight out from the housing.
Remove the axle seal and drape a shop towel over the opening to keep the dust out. If you’re simply replacing a blown seal, you can jump to the re-install.
The ABS sensor is attached to the wheel bearing housing. A small bolt holds it in place and needs to be removed before you proceed.
This is where the magic happens. If you don’t have a 40 ton hydraulic press in your garage you’re going to need to head down to a machine shop / auto shop for a little love. The machinist will remove the retaining clip, set up the axle in their hydraulic press, and pull the wheel bearing housing off of the axle. She will then set up the new wheel bearing housing so it can be pushed into place on the axle and replace the retaining clip. Done.
When you get the axle back, be sure to reinstall your ABS senor. Add a little grease to the outside of your new axle seal and tap it into place. This is also the time to replace the O-ring.
Carefully slide the axle into the housing. Avoid banging against the seal. You may need to turn the axle a little in order for the splines to line up and fully slide into the housing. Tighten up the nuts that hold the axle to the housing.
The tricky part for me was reassembling the parking brakes. Although the guys at Auburn Care Repair & Offroad completed it in a few minutes, it took me about 30 minutes to get the parking brake shoes back in place when I replaced the seal the first and second time. Install the #1 shoe first, reattach the parking brake cable, then install the #2 shoe. It is not all that complicated but there is limited room to work the parts into place and the springs take a little muscle so take your time and use the diagrams here to help.
After the parking brake shoes and brake cable are complete it is time to adjust the shoes so they will hold tight when the parking brake is engaged. Make small adjustments, put the brake disk in place and feel the rotation against the shoes. Once you feel the shoe begin to rub, back it off a bit so the disk rotates freely but quickly grabs the drum when the parking brake is engaged.
Put your disk brake housing back on (if you disconnected the break hardline you’ll need to bleed the brakes). Connect the ABS cable to the ABS sensor. Mount your wheel and your set.
No so hard right. If you want to do this work yourself you’ll need a few parts:
Rear Axle Hub and Bearing Assembly
Rear Axle Bearing Inner Retainer
Rear Axle Shaft Snap Ring
Rear Axle Shaft Oil Seal
Although you may not be able to perform all the work, you can certainly perform a good portion of the work and let a machine shop do the heavy lifting on your rear wheel bearing replacement.
Bonus: Here are the instructions Toyota has for removing and installing a rear axle on a Toyota FJ Cruiser:
Not that long ago on an off-road adventure we broke the tail light on our FJ Cruiser (Carnage on the trail). Now it is time to pay the piper and repair the damage.
Replacing a broken tail light is a simple fix anyone can perform with a few simple tools.
Although simple, plan on at least an hour to complete this repair. It is also time to throwout all child labor laws and enlist the help of your daughter or son or anyone else who has small hands.
In order to remove the broken tail light assembly, pull back the small plastic access panel on the interior back corner of your FJ Cruiser. Since we replaced the driver’s side we also removed the bottle jack in order to reach the third hexnut that holds the tail light housing in place. If you are replacing the passenger side you will have to remove the base speaker and the access panel behind.
The tail light housing is held in place by three hexnuts on long screws that are attached to the tail light assembly. A 10mm wrench will loosen the hexnuts closest to the back door accessible through the small access portal. The third requires a 10mm deep socket (on a 1/4″ drive there really isn’t much room in there) and small hands. Reach back up into the cavity behind where the bottle jack is stored. You cannot see the long screw or hexnut so you (or your small handed assistant) will need to feel your way in order to slide the socket on and loosen the hexnut.
With the hexnuts removed, gently slide the old light housing off and carefully remove the wire clip connections to the light sockets. After you have the housing off remove and transfer the light sockets (with bulbs) onto the new housing.
Now simply reverse the process to attach the new tail light housing assembly to your FJ Cruiser. Once you have the hexnuts hand tightened, test that the brake, reverse light and turn signal are operating correctly. When tightening the hexnuts, be careful not to over tighten. The screws are attached to plastic and can crack the plastic housing if over tightened. You want to a apply just enough torque to hold the tail light housing to your FJ Cruiser securely.
Because this repair is so simple, we are not a fan of tail light guards. The guards attach using the three tail light housings screws with the guard’s attachment points sitting between the metal body and the plastic tail light assembly. When the guard comes in contact with an immovable object the guard is pushed in causing body damage and most likely cracks to the tail light housing. We prefer braking the tail light housing over body damage.
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