Category Archives: 4×4 Tech

How to fix, maintain or modify your off road adventure truck is here. We also discuss gear and how it holds up out on an adventure.

toyota fj cruiser drive shaft splines and snap ring

FJ Cruiser Front Drive Shaft Replacement

old drive shaftOn an off-road adventure, spare parts are great but if you don’t have the tools or the know-how to complete the repair… those parts aren’t going to change themselves.

You’ve heard us preach: “If the rig you drive off-road has independent front suspension (IFS) carry a spare drive-shaft”, can I get an AMEN. The CV Joint provides a great deal of movement over a wide range of angles but it is a weak link that we don’t do any favors for when we add larger tires, re-gear our differentials and provide additional articulation with suspension lifts. The problem occurs as you put large amounts of torque on the joint when it is at a maximum angle. A classic case is where the wheels are spinning and the driver turns them to gain traction to climb a rock. As the tires catch traction all that spinning force is thrown directly into the CV which usually explodes under the immediate transition of force.

Some folks have opted for beefier CV joints. Our philosophy is a little different. When driving off-road you will always have weak links. We prefer to keep those weak links where they can be repaired in the field. Beef up your CV and now the differential gears have to absorb all the torque that the CV was previously protecting them from. A drive-shaft replacement in the field (or just pulling the axle and limping in 3WD) is manageable, replacing differential gears in the field not so much.

We recently had a CV boot on one of our drive-shafts start oozing lube while on the Utah backcountry discovery route (UTBDR). We managed to bandage it up with zip ties and duct tape in the field but upon arriving back in the garage it was time to make a proper repair by swapping out the damaged drive-shaft.spare drive shaft

The process of swapping a drive-shaft is pretty straight forward with the right tools and a little planning. The old Toyota Trails Team used to brag about changing out a drive-shaft in under 30 minutes. For us mere mortals it can be accomplished in about an hour or so with a few basic tools under reasonable conditions. But who breaks anything under reasonable conditions? 

Most of us carry a small assortment of tools when we wheel. You will most likely need to add a couple of items to your tool bag if you are going to complete this repair. Here is the list of bits and bobble to have on hand.

  • 1/2” socket wrench
  • 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets
  • 35mm socket (for the axle nut. This repair lacks entertainment value without a 35mm socket)axle hub
  • Big flat head screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Slide hammer (not something we carry) or small crowbar
  • Small mallet
  • Breaker bar (or a pipe that fits over your socket wrench to get leverage on that axle nut)
  • brass bar
  • Torque wrench that will go to 175 ft/lbs (if you want to do it right)
  • Gear oil (some is going to spill out)
  • Funnel hose (have you seen where the front diff fill is located)
  • Shop rags, tarp or plastic sheet, trash bags (you’ll be making a mess)
  • Gloves, hand cleaner, baby wipes (unless you’re ok with grease all over your steer wheel on the drive home)
  • Flashlight (always carry a good flashlight)

The parts:extra parts

  • Preassembled spare drive-shaft (sort of the point)
  • Steering knuckle oil seal – recommended but optional
  • Hub dust cover (Toyota calls it a hub grease cap) – recommended but optional

On the optional parts, you can be careful and reuse the dust cover and seal but it’s hardly worth the frustration when your in the field. It will save you time and trouble if you carry these extras.

The method we’ll describe here is with field repair in mind. It may not be pretty but if we could get by on our good looks, we’d have a chase truck and a team of mechanics on our off-road adventures.

outboard drive shaftFirst and foremost, secure the rig. Try to limp to a flat, dry spot. Chock the other wheels to keep the rig from moving. This repair is much easier with a floor jack and a couple of jack stands. In the field we carry a bottle jack and a hi-lift.

Grab your spare drive-shaft and give it a look. Double check for cracks or leaks in the boots or assemblies… You really don’t want to put in a broken part. And if your spare is bad, begin considering your options.

Start by removing your spare tire (yes, the spare tire) and set it aside for a moment. Now loosen the lugs on the wheel with the bad drive-shaft before raising the rig with the Hi-lift. Once you have the wheel off, lay it flat, slide it under the rig and stack the spare on top. You are creating a jack stand out of the two tires so position them under the frame toward the front of the rig and lower the rig off the hi-lift onto the tire stack. You will need to put lot of torque on some of the nuts and you don’t want to have a hi-lift holding the rig in the air as you’re pushing an pulling things around. Now throw down a tarp or plastic sheet to catch the gear oil that will seep out from the front differential as we move to the meat of this repair.outboard drive shaft removal

Pry off the hub dust cover. Toyota says you can pry the cover loose… We just punch through it with a big screwdriver and tug at it, but then again, we carry a spare cap. Remove the cotter pin and locking nut cap setting them is a safe place. Removing the axle nut takes that 35mm socket, a breaker bar and a little muscle. Have the rig in 4W-Lo to keep the axle from turning as you wrench off the nut.

Remove the nut and cotter pin holding the steering tie rod in place and wiggle the tie rod free from the steering knuckle. It might take a light wrap or two with the mallet to free the tie rod.

inboard drive shaft removalFree the two bolts holding the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle. These bolts are a bit tight so put some muscle into it and take care to set them in a safe place… finding a lost bolt, a nut or god forbid a cotter pin in the dirt can be harder than any field repair.

At this point the steering knuckle and wheel hub can be swung out of the way and you can slide it off the outboard side of the drive-shaft. Be careful not to pull on or stress the ABS sensor plug, its wire or the brake line. Once the shaft is pulled out, rest the hub back down on the lower ball joint attachment.

steering knuckle oil sealTo remove the inner portion of the drive-shaft from the differential, Toyota recommends using a slide hammer and hook to pull the drive-shaft free. A slide hammer is not in our tool kit on the trail, and we’ve found a small crowbar works well to pry (really more of a pop) it out. In either case you are putting enough force on the drive-shaft cup to pop the snap ring free. Be careful not to damage the transfer case’s oil seal. As the drive-shaft comes free, gear oil will start to leak out and you will want to catch it in a tin can, bucket or what ever is handy in order to protect the environment.

Ok… take a breath, grab a few swigs of water and relax, you’re half way through the repair.

Take a look at the steering knuckle oil seal on the inside of the steering knuckle. There is a good chance it is chewed up, dirty and worn out which is why we carry the spare. Replacing the seal involves pulling the old one out with a pair of pliers and then working the new one into the steering knuckle. Tap the new seal in using a soft touch with the mallet, hammer or rock on a brass rod working your way around and tapping it into place. The seal is a tight fit so take your time until it is snugged into place and flush against the knuckle.

On the FJ Cruiser a single drive-shaft will fit either passenger or driver side, but there is a clear inboard and outboard side to the drive-shaft shaft. As you prepare to install the new drive-shaft notice the snap ring on the inboard side. An extra set of hands will make this much easier if they can swing out the hub holding it out of the way while you install the drive-shaft. In order to install the drive-shaft align the shaft splines with the differential and have the snap ring open side facing down. Slide the shaft into the differential. It will take some force to get the snap ring that holds the drive-shaft in the differential into place. If after a couple of strong nudges the drive-shaft does not pop in, take the mallet and brass rod and drive it into place using the notches on the inboard CV cup.

insert drive shaftOnce the inboard side of the drive-shaft is in place you can slide the outboard side through the wheel hub and start buttoning everything back up and hand tighten the axle hub nut, snugging it up to hold the drive-shaft and hub together. You’ll be torquing it tight later.

Torque down the front lower ball joint attachment that holds the knuckle to the lower arm. Reassemble the tie rod torquing the nut and replacing the cotter pin. And now torque up tight the front axle nut with the required 175 ft/lb. Slide the nut locking cap over the axle nut and put the cotter pin back in. Tap the hub’s dust cover  (grease cap) into place and your just about done. 

Before putting the wheel back on, look over the whole IFS. We will put a bottle jack under the lower control arm and raise it a bit to simulate how it will sit when the tire is back on and the drive-shaft is relatively horizontal. Tug, pull and push on everything to make sure the entire assembly is snug and fit. If your not sure about the play in a part, check it against the other side. Remember your other side is under weight and will react a bit different but yodust coveru will understand what parts have play in them and what do not. 

You will want to top off your front differential with gear oil to make up for what has seeped out through the repair. The easiest way we’ve found to fill the front differential on an FJ Cruiser is with a funnel and long hose run from the differential fill port up to a location where the gear oil can be pored into the funnel and run down to the differential. The amount of oil required depends on the angle your rig was at during this repair and the amount of oil that leaked out.

Once you’ve topped off the oil and reinstalled the fill plug, the final step is to put the wheel back on, clean up your mess and continue on your way.

No… those parts aren’t going to change themselves but with the right parts and tools, there is no reason you can’t make a field repair and continue your off-road adventure.

Bonus resources: You might want to print these off, put them is a zip lock freezer bag and tape to your spare drive shaft.

voodoo blue fj cruiser rock pile tillamook forest

Constant Change in 4×4 Adventure Suspension

fj cruiser total chaos long travel falken rockie mountain tireChange is what Buddhism is all about.  But this is an off-road adventure not a centuries old philosophical approach to life…  Or is it.  What follows is an evolution in our quest for the perfect suspension.

Back in late 2006 we purchased the Blue Bunny, our early 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, one of the first to hit the west cost.  On a warm sunny fall day we drove it off the lot in Portland, headed back up to Seattle and fell in love… Thanks to the independent front suspension (IFS) the FJ Cruiser’s ride is smooth.  The 4.0-liter 1GR-FE DOHC V6 engine puts out loads of torque and horse power.  The 2 speed transfer case, rear locking differential and A-trac traction control system make the FJC a pack mule that will go up and down most 4×4 trails right out of the box.  But we don’t travel down most 4×4 trails… and so our quest began for a smooth riding mountain goat that will go just about anywhere and remain dependable enough to get us there and back without a team  of mechanics and a fleet of chase vehicles…  Not that we wouldn’t like a traveling pit crew…  we just don’t have it in the budget.

The first thing we needed for our adventures was added ground clearance and the ability to soak up miles and miles of washboard roads. A common misconception is that a lift kit gives you ground clearance.  That is not true.  A lift allows you room to put on larger tiers and it is the taller tiers that deliver ground clearance.  So our goal was to lift the rig as little as possible, keeping our center of gravity low, while allowing us to stuff 295x17x70 Toyo mud tires into the wheel-wells with enough space for travel up and down.  We considered our FJ Cruiser lift options and decided on a suspension lift that would maintain the smooth IFS front travel rather than swapping to a solid axle aimed for more purpose built rock crawling.

In order to reach our ground clearance goal we started out with a 3″ Sway-A-Way suspension lift front and back.   The Sway-A-Way coil-overs can be individually adjusted allowing us to dial in the pre-load to compensate for the added weight of bumper, winch and any winter weight the driver might be carrying.  The lift allowed us to stuff our tires into the wheel-well giving us the clearance we were looking to gain.  Over the next year and half we explored our way up to the Arctic Ocean and wheeled local trails working on off-road driving skills in order to take our adventures to the next level…  Through out this time our 3″ lift met all our needs.

fj cruiser baja racerAs our desire to explore further grew, ground clearance was no longer enough.  We wanted to add travel and increase the capabilities of our rig as it travels over washboard dirt roads and boulder filled trails.  In order to pick up the travel we were after, we choose a Total Chaos front long travel kit.  The kit achieves it’s additional travel by pushing the wheels out 2″ further on each side making room for longer coil-overs.  On our rig we kept the lift at about 3″ and took the gain in travel through droop (wheel falling down).  The additional droop keeps the wheels on the ground over all sorts of terrain as the rig rides smooth across it all.  The added travel proved invaluable when we tested it on our Rubicon off-road adventure.

While the front travel jumped from a stock 7.81″ up to about 12″ with the long travel kit, the rear with it’s 3″ lift was stuck at around 9″.  Although impressive numbers, running down the Baja it became clear that the rear end, with its 2″ diameter shocks and original factory geometry could not keep up with the front end or the demands of our Baja off-road adventure.  So here is where we are going in our evolution… Introducing the Metal Tech rear long travel.

The FJC comes from the factory with a five point rear suspension.  Metal Tech offers their FJ Cruiser Rear Long Travel Suspension Package – Stage 2 package which ups the shock travel to 11.5″ and allows the wheel to move 27″ from top to bottom.

Ask anyone and they will tell you Metal Tech makes great stuff and their kit is better than anything else on the market. But we’re looking for a bit more custom solution so we’ve asked Metal Tech to engineer a solution that will be able to take us to the top of the world.fj cruiser flexing suspension

We plan to start with Metal Tech’s progressive rear springs.  Their springs stand 19 1/4″ high but allow you to maintain a rig height the same as a standard 3″ lift.  Metal Tech has engineered a progressive rate into their spring that allows for soft supple expansion that gives more flex when needed while the stiffer section maintains lift and support.  Remember our goal, lots of travel while keeping the center of gravity as low as possible… Well we didn’t forget and neither did Metal Tech.

We are also going to utilize Metal Tech’s three link suspension system (although its is 4 when you count the pan-hard bar which we’ll maintain daily driving, although who knows…  LT is talking about swapping it for a torsion bar.  Metal Tech uses 2″ x 3/8″ wall DOM tubing for their links and then mounts them to the frame using 1/4″ and 3/8″ plate to protect the ends.  If you’ve ever bought anything from these guys you know it is all about the steel.  They specify that the steel their suppliers provide, meets their requirements for tensile strength and hardness to ensure its ability to take the punishment that wheeling delivers.

In order to control the up down oscillations as our rig bombs down the trails we’ll be installing 2 1/2″ diameter, 12″ travel, remote reserve, 3 tube by-pass Sway-A-Way shocks.  If you ask us why we are choosing these shocks we’d tell you… A single 2 1/2″ diameter shocks is comparable to the performance of dual 2″ diameter shocks.  The by-passes will let us fine tune our shocks’ compression and rebound in order to compensate for different terrains and loads as we go from daily driver, to 4×4 trails to all out expeditions.  Shocks benefit from a large external reservoir that offers the greatest oil of volume.  The oil flows freely between the shock body and reservoir through a flexible high pressure hose, providing excellent heat dissipation and preventing fad during a long, hard day on the trail.  To ensure we have enough room for the larger shocks we’ll be relocating them to outboard hoops that let us squeeze out every bit of the 12″ travel.  And why are we choosing Sway-A-Way?  We need to know we can count on our shocks through any terrain and Sway-A-Way has proven themselves to us since our initial 3″ lift…  It’s all we’ve run.  Their quality and toughness have performed when we needed them most.

Metal Tech has spent significant time working out the geometry to ensure our rig will have the proper squat and anti-squat needed to maintain proper handling.  LT has also worked out the spacing requirements for those bigger rear shocks and dialed in their springs to take advantage f all that travel.

The truth is…  there is no such thing as the perfect suspension.  The suspension set up we are working on is the best compromise between flex, stiffness, adjust-ability, maintainability, ride, and cost for our style of wheeling.  What works for us is not the best for a class I race rig or full time rock crawler…  But this is the best build in the evolution, for our needs…  A rig that can go just about anywhere, if we’re careful and willing to go around some stuff, driver forever over the nastiest back roads, at reasonable speeds, and still get us to work come Monday.  Over the next month or two the Blue Bunny will roll into Metal Tech’s shop and go under the torch to receive its new rear suspension.   As it’s evolution progresses, we’ll bring you lots of pictures and many more details…

But suspension is only part of the story…  we’ll also address the need to improve the transfer of horse power down to the wheels and keep them all turning.  We have plans for that as well…  but that’s another post.

toyota fj cruiser water crossing baja mexico

Crossing Over To The Other Side (aka Water Fording)

man sitting in cold riverCheck out off-road adventure photos and you’ll find 4×4 trucks splashing through the water, creating giant walls  of H2O that make you believe you are witness to the parting of the Red Sea. Yes we’re guilty of getting caught up in the moment, throwing caution to the wind and racing through a wet patch for a good photo…  We could hurt ourselves…  for your entertainment.

But experience says the best course of action is be cautious when it comes to Water crossings.

In the Northwest winter off-road means water and lots of it.  But you can find trails that require water fording just about anywhere depending on the time of year…  Even the deserts of Baja has its water crossings.  So how do you prepare for a swim.

fj cruiser wall of muddy water

A water crossing can be fatal to an engine or even worse to occupants of the vehicle if everything goes south.  Never underestimate the force of flowing water.  Water weighs in at about 62.4 pounds per cubic foot and for each foot the water flowing against a vehicle there can be 500 pounds of lateral force pushing against your rig.

Sure you can install a snorkelrelocate you differential breather and try to make your rig water proof. But in the end you cannot make an off-road adventure truck as water tight as a frogs ass. So want is a guy to do when you have to get to the other side.

The first and most important thing to do when coming up to a water crossing is to know what you’re in for.

  • How deep is the water?  Is it deeper than your air intake? How about your spark plugs or alternator?
  • Is the water just sitting there or flowing swiftly?
  • What is the bottom like?  Can you see the bottom?  Is it a mine field of boulders and tree branches?  Is it soft, sink to your axles muck?  Are their any deep holes that could swallow your rig?

If you come up to a water crossing and don’t know the answers to these questions…  Stop, get out and look.  Roll up your pants and walk through the water… grab your shovel, a wadding staff or stick, and poke at the bottom to feel what your tires will be grabbing.  Don’t be misled by what appears to be a shallow stretch of water, which is hiding a foot of deep stinky muck that will have you stuck, axle deep in a mud that refuses to release it’s grip.

fj cruiser baja swamp

Don’t forget to check out what the other side is like?  Will you have to try to drive up a steep muddy high bank or is it a soft sandy exit?  Look around for tire tracks to see if others have made it through… look for where they went in and where they came out.

While you’re scouting the water crossing, plan for any miss haps. Are there recovery points to winch off if need? If you’re traveling with other rigs are they prepared to get you unstuck in case you don’t make it?  Have a plan, just in case.

Driving through water is enough of an adrenaline rush without stomping on the skinny peddle.  By driving slow and steady your rig will create a bow wave in front of your rig, which creates and keeps a pocket of shallower water behind it where your rig is traveling.  This bow wave allows you to drive through water that might otherwise exceed your rigs crossing depth capability.  Of course if you loose that steady momentum, you loose that pocket and can quickly find your rig hydrolocked in the middle of a river.

fj cruiser baja swamp crossing

To cross water enter at the slow steady pace you will maintain throughout the crossing.  Hold your momentum and keep your splashing to a minimum.  Avoid bouncing around or quickly changing direction which can cause you to loose your bow wave. Follow through on your exit continuing your progress until your rig is high and dry.

If your facing a particularly deep water crossing, you can increase your rig’s ability to create a bow wave by duct taping plastic or a plank of wood across the front grill.  But if you’re considering how to exceed your rig’s capabilities for water fording, you may want to starting looking for another route across.

Water crossings are part of overlanding and is often what separates an off-road adventure from a mini-van road trip.  If you know your rigs capabilities. scout the crossing and motor through cautiously you’ll be able to go further down the road less traveled on your off-road adventures.

All I Want For Christmas

toyota fj cruiser ARB bumper snowy roadWhat would the holidays be without endless website and magazine Christmas gift lists to send Santa?  Since we take the road less traveled, we prefer to strategically slip our off-road adventure Christmas list into the pages of Hula Betty‘s Cosmo.  We also like to drop subtle  reminders to her about how all our off-road adventure skills and gear will save lives when a meteor the size of Kansas comes hurdling towards earth and we need to escape into the mountains to avoid Armageddon.  In case Bruce Willis fails to save the planet, we are prepared.

It’s not like Hula Betty took the hint last year, but in keeping with tradition here is our new Christmas wish list.

  1. pelican flashlightPelican Flex-Neck LED flashlight – This light has a magnetic base which allows the lite to attach to metal surfaces and 15″ flexible neck that directs bright LED light in any direction. Map reading, working under the hood, or helping you rummage through a duffel on a dark and stormy night this light will deliver 7 hours of burn time on two AA batteries.
  2. Winch line extension – Getting unstuck can sometimes mean running a line out beyond the length of your winch’s capacity.  Having an extra 50 foot extension handy can be the difference between continuing on with your adventure and a long hike out.
  3. metal tech land cruiserAnything Metal Tech – If you own a Toyota Land Cruiser, FJC, 4Runner or Tacoma these guys should be your new best friends. High quality products engineered from the ground up to protect your rig and service that never ends. Bumpers, sliders, tube doors and roll cages are just a few of signature Metal Tech items on the Christmas wish list.  (don’t tell Hula Betty, but there is growing pile of stuff at their shop with our name on it)
  4. LuxuryLite cot –  When your adventure keeps you on the trail for days and nights on end, a good night’s rest is a must. While the young Turks can sleep on the ground, old bulls know the value of a cot that keeps your tired bones off the rocks and supports you head to toe. The LuxuryLite cot is lite weight and compact enough for anyone to bring along regardless of how you travel.  This one really goes out to  our Dual sport bike friends where space is at a premium.
  5. ORTT wheel chockOff-road Trail Tools wheel chocks – When gravity isn’t your friend, you’ll want a good set of wheel chocks to keep your rig stead fast on pavement or dirt. Unlike most others, these chocks fold up into a very compact form factor to stow away neatly and then quickly deliver stability when needed on just about any surface.
  6. Contribution to BlueRibbon Coalition – Doing something for others is what Christmas is suppose to be about. The BlueRibbon Coalition (BRC) champions responsible use of public lands and waters for the benefit of all recreationists.  When others are trying to shut out motorized use of public lands, the BRC is working hard to secure, protect, and expand outdoor recreation access and use, for all.
  7. zarges casesZarges storage case – Being self sufficient on an off-road adventure requires a lot of gear that you need to store. Zarges aluminum containers allow you to organize and transport food, recovery gear, cameras, kitchen equipment, first aid supplies, clothing and everything else safely out of the elements. Their design, protects your gear from dirt, rain and grim when its traveling on the roof or pulled down next to your camp overnight for easy access in the morning.
  8. Subscription to Overland Journal –  If you’ve read our website top to bottom (you did right) and you’re still looking for inspiration for your next adventure, this is the magazine for you. The journal is about exploration. The journal covers long weekend trips, gear reviews and 10,000-mile expeditions across every continent in the world. And as a bonus the photographs filling their pages are worthy of placement in the finest main street galleries.
  9. magnetic spice tinsMagnetic spice tins – Meals on an off-road adventure are more than just calories. A good meal around a camp fire at the end of a day exploring is the thing culinary dreams are made of. A dash of Indian cumin, a pinch of pink sea salt, a bay leaf, a measure of rosemary, sage and just a hint of  Madagascar cinnamon will turn any meal into a gourmet dining experience. Magnetic tins keep all those spices securely at hand.
  10. Primus Power Ignitor 3 – A good lighter is a big advantage when it comes to starting a fire, camp stove or indulging in fine a cigar after a long day on the trail. This lighter burns at 1300°C  and is as close as you can get to weather proof.  And while the Primus ignitor will help you get your burn on. You might want to ask for water proof matches and a flint stick for back up.

Not sure whether I’ve been naughty or nice this year but come December 25th (Christmas morning, not Christmas eve) we’ll find out.  And regardless of what is under the tree, I’ve already received my present this year.  Back in January, Hula Betty didn’t blink an eye when I asked to go on our Baja Off-Road Adventure…  She just said “be careful, have fun and comeback in one piece.”  You can’t ask for a better present than that.

dempster highway warning sign

Tracking Your Truck

NetTrack softwareThis off-road adventure website was started five years ago for one reason… Let my mother know dad was ok and to track where he was on our original Arctic Ocean Adventure. A lot has changed since then and our off-road adventures have taken us through some extreme conditions and to amazing locations. But one thing hasn’t changed, when we take off, mom wants to know we’re safe and where the hell we are.

Recently the guys at Track Your Truck (www.trackyourtruck.com) asked us to give their tracking system a try.  These guys have satellite and cellular based real time GPS vehicle tracking.  Why would you need one of these?  Well how about dispatchers looking to keep their delivery trucks moving efficiently, helping lost drivers find an address and alerting customers for accurate arrival/departure time predictions.  Our personal favorite (and probably ever teenager’s father’s favorite feature) covert tracking of the car you lent to your teenager.  Or just to let those who worry about you know where you are.

We received the cellular based Coyote unit which providestrack your truck coyote AT unit

  • real-time vehicle location, speed and heading 24/7
  • 2-minute GPS tracking updates
  • Internal antennas and battery backup
  • Starter Kill—Vehicle only allowed to operate on predefined schedule
  • Accelerometer for excessive acceleration, deceleration events

The unit can be plugged into your rig’s power socket (cigarette lighter for those who remember when cars came with ashtrays) or hard wired in behind the dash.  We unpacked the unit, plugged it into the power socket and we were done.  That has to be the easiest install we’ve ever done.  We even moved it between vehicles a time or two in just seconds (I have a teenage daughter who asked to borrow one of our rigs for a weekend).

Once the unit is installed you can keep track of your fleet using Track Your Truck’s on-line software, NetTrack.  Log-in and NetTrack lets you see in real time, the locations of all your vehicles against Google Maps as well as review several spreadsheet based reports with tons of data including location points, dates, times, headings and speed.  You can also replay your vehicles’ routes using Google Maps or Google Earth.

All this functionality comes with a price.  The units start at $199 along with a monthly fee beginning at $19.99 for coverage and NetTrack access.  If you’re a fleet manager looking for an easy solution that allows you to track your vehicles and optimize their use in transit, Track Your Truck is worth a look.  The unit and software definitely performed well.

For our simpler needs, this technology is not the right match for us.  We’re not going to be taking advantage of real time traffic maps overlaid on our rigs location to optimize delivery times or looking to streamline routes across multiple vehicles.  And while the cellular based unit will cover our road trips, we’d need to bump up to the satellite coverage for off-road adventures.  And all that data in NetTrack is designed to be private so publicly publishing real time location goes against the grain.   However, speaking as a father that covert tracking and kill switch scheduling capability has some real appeal.

metal tech 4x4 100 series slider

100 Series Land Cruiser Sliders

There is a long rich Land Cruisers heritage.  Over its long off-road history the Land Cruiser has led off-road adventures all around the world.

When we started getting serious about taking our FJ Cruiser on off-road adventures, a pair of rock rails (aka sliders) were installed (FJ Cruiser slider install) to keep the rocks from crushing our door sills and help the rig slide around an obstacle.

Over the years the Land Cruiser has taken on many sizes and now the popular 100 series has protection for whatever off-road adventure you have planned.

Recently Metal Tech announced the official release of their 100 series Land Cruiser sliders.  Over a year in the making, Metal Tech 4×4 is releasing their signature laser cut and formed sliders with their two stage rub rail design.

The unique Metal Tech look and engineered design protect your rig, enhance the looks and provide a solid step for reaching those items stowed on the roof rack.  The sliders are 100% bolt on, powder coated black and includes all the mounting hardware.

orange barrels on road and bug on windshield

Windshield Wiper Replacement

Spring is in the air, the sun is shining, and the last thing on your mind is your windshield wipers. But this is exactly the time when you should be thinking about replacing your windshield wipers.

Throughout the winter, your windshield wipers worked their little blades off, clearing snow, rain, hail and road gunk off your windshield. And now they are probably a little tired and worn out, leaving streaks and no longer able to give you that crystal clear vision they once did. As we get ready for summer wheeling (and who isn’t excited about that), changing out our windshield wipers is one of those maintenance items on our check list.

A quick Google search will return you lots of choices, so we turned to our friend Beau Jaramillo over at Amsoil and he sent us Trico’s Neoform Beam Blade. These are their highest-performing blades with single beam construction offering an infinite number of blade pressure points that keeps a constant, even pressure across the entire length of the wiper. All that pressure translates into a smoother, more consistent wipe across the windshield. They even have a Teflon coating for longer life. The NeoForm blades’ aerodynamic spoiler design helps keep the blade on the windshield, even in high wind or vehicle speeds… Not that our FJ Cruiser is breaking the sound barrier.

Our FJ Cruiser requires three windshield wipers, one 16″ blade in front of the driver and two smaller 14″ blades keeping the center and passenger side of the windshield clean. The windshield blades connect to the arms using a hook style attachment (other rigs my use a different attachment style). Changing your windshield wipers is easy and can be done rain or shine in about five minutes.

Remove the old windshield wiper. It should have a small tab that will release it from the arm and allow you to slide the old wiper off the arm.

Push the Trico wiper adapter latch open, lifting it up.
Slide the arm end through the latch opening and pull the blade back onto the arm’s hook to lock it in place.
Close the adapter latch and you done.windshield wippers

Sound complicated? Here is a 60 second video that will show you how easy it is: Trico Install Video

Now when we run into rain, mud or trail dust, our new blades will wipe it clean, instead of just pushing the water back and forth.

We live in the northwest so of course it rained within a few hours of installing the new wipers… And how did they perform? Highway driving in a good downpour, no streaks or wet spots. The view remained crystal clear!

lgrt decal check mark

Off-Road Check List: Rig Inspection (aka Did I Break Anything)

Whats the difference between wheeling a local 4×4 trail and an epic off-road adventure?  You check your rig the day before you wheel a local trail and fix it when you get back home, on an epic off-road adventure you check your rig every morning and fix it every night.

OK, so Conan has nothing to worry about from my stand-up, but there is a lot of truth in that joke.  Pilots know that you live and die by your check lists: prior to take-off, during flight and prior to landing.  The same is true in wheeling, especially if you will be dependent on your rig for a number of days, with no support in sight.

Sometimes with all the excitement and work of an off-road adventure it is easy to forget something (trust me, I’ve forgotten more than my share).  In order to reduce the chance of missing a potential problem, we now keep a laminated memory jogger checklist to help us stick to our inspection program before, during and after a day on the trail.

Pre-Trip / Daily – Rig Inspection

  1. Axles & Differentials – bolts, boots, clips, u-joints, grease points.  Check to ensure everything is tight and look for leaks or drips.
  2. Battery – clean terminals, check for damaged, corroded wiring. Check for loose connections.
  3. Brakes – drums, rotors, pads/shoes, fluid, hoses, leaks, check parking brake, brake lights.  Helps to have a second person pressing on the breaks while checking.
  4. Belts & Hoses – look for cracks or bulges. Ensure spares are packed in the parts bin.
  5. Body/Frame – look for cracks and rust.  Remove any sticks and debris caught up in the frame.
  6. Cooling/Heating system – look for leaks, fluid levels, clean and repair fins, check hoses and clamps, thermostat, radiator cap. Ensure leak repair kit is packed in parts bin.
  7. Communications – CB / ham radio, antenna broadcast and receive.
  8. Driveline/Transmission – inspect case and shifter, leaks, fluids, universal & CV joints, skid plates
  9. Engine – carburetor, fuel injectors, spark plugs, wires, PVC valve, pumps, distributor & wire, check for leaks and cracks, air filter (clean or replace).  Keep an eye out for loose wires and hoses.
  10. Exhaust – muffler, tailpipes (rust or holes or hanging). Check all hardware holding tailpipes in place.
  11. Fluids – oil, transmission, brake, radiator coolant, gear oils, wipers, power steering (check levels and color).  Ensure extra fluids packed in rig.
  12. Lights – headlights, brake lights, auxiliary lights; make sure they’re aimed properly.  Verify turn signals.  Ensure extra bulbs packed in parts bin.
  13. Steering – check alignment, fluid level, belts and hoses, pump and reservoir.  Look for leaks.  Check tie-rod boots for tears or rips.  Check all joints for play.
  14. Suspension – coil overs, springs, shocks, alignment, wheel bearings, steering linkage, control arms, pan bars.  Notice unusual play in components.
  15. Tires – tighten (torque) lug nuts, air pressure, tread wear (including your full-size spare), look for cuts and missing chunks, torque beadlock bolts.  Ensure auxiliary air pump or CO2 tank is operational and packed in the rig.
  16. Winch – free spool rope and inspect, rewind onto drum.  Check for loose connections and look for frayed rope or wires.
  17. Wipers – check for wear, fluid level.

Trail Head – Rig Inspection

Before you take off for the trail start the engine and inspect the following with while the rig warms up:

  1. Fuel level – check fuel gauge ensuring level is on full (plan for next fuel stop if necessary).
  2. Voltage – check voltage gauge for proper level.
  3. Oil pressure – check oil pressure gauge for proper pressure.
  4. Engine RPMs – check tachometer to ensure smooth maintained engine idle speed.  Listen for misfires and unusual engine noise.  (you should know your rig’s personality including how its engine sounds normally)
  5. Temperature – check temperature gauge to see proper operation and coolant temperature.
  6. Transfer case – ensure transfer case engages in 4 wheel high and 4 wheel low as well as disengages smoothly.
  7. Traction control – test that the rear locker engages correctly. Test A-trac (or front locker) for proper engagement.  Make sure the disengage as well.
  8. Load – ensure load is properly secured.  Check hi-lift jack, shovel and any exterior mounted items.
  9. Walk around – make one last walk around the rig.  Look for any item left out.  Ensure valve stem caps are screwed on after airing down.  Check that nothing was left resting on the spare, bumper, hood or roof.

If you are on a multi-day off-road adventure stop early enough so that you can fully inspect your rig for damage while the sun is still out.  Stopping early also gives you enough daylight to see what you are doing if repairs are needed.  Tip: remember fluid levels change based on the engine temperature always read against the appropriate level marks.

While a checklist wont prevent breakage, it will go a long way to lessening potential problems.  By catching leaks, tears and loose bolts early on, you can hopefully avoid finding yourself trying to reconnect a break line while standing in axle deep mud.  But just in case all hell breaks loose… carry lots of duct tape.

toyota fj cruiser transfer case oil filling

Transfer Case Oil Change How To

Amsoil severe gear SAE 75w-90 oilOn an off-road adventure in a 4WD vehicle, the transfer case distributes the power front and back.  The 2007  Toyota  FJ  Cruiser  maintenance  schedule, shows that Toyota recommends changing the gear oil in the transfer case every 30,000 miles depending on usage.

Sure you can bring your rig into the local shop but changing the transfer case’s gear oil yourself is an easy maintenance activity that can be completed by any back yard mechanic. Besides saving money, you will also learn a little more about your 4×4 adventure vehicle which can only help when your on the trail.

We checked our 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser owners manual and found we would need 1.5 quarts of Hypoid gear oil API GL-5 (Toyota Recommends oil viscosity: SAE 75W-90).  We went with Amsoil Severe Gear SAE 75W-90 synthetic extreme pressure lubricant, formulated for sever duty applications.

We also grabbed new gaskets for the fill and drain plugs as well as a funnel with flexible tube (Hopkins FloTool 10704 Spill Saver Measu-Funnel) for getting the thick gooey oil into the transfer case.  The only tools needed are a oil catch pan, 24 millimeter socket, ratchet and a torque wrench.

Start by putting the rig on a flat, level spot to ensure good draining and proper refill. Tip: clean around the transfer case with soapy water and a scrub brush to remove the road and trail gunk.  This will prevent any dirt from falling in to the case while changing the oil.

toyota fj cruiser transfer caseUsing the 24mm socket remove the fill plug located in the middle(ish) of the transfer case.  By removing the fill plug first, the housing will be able to breath allowing the gear oil to drain more quickly.

With the oil catch pan in place remove the drain plug, located on the bottom of the transfer case, using the same 24mm socket. If your going to use gloves, this is the time to wear them.

Once the oil is fully drained, wipe the area clean and re-insert the drain plug with a new gasket and hand tighten.  Set the torque correctly on your torque wrench and tighten down the drain plug.  The Toyota maintenance manual states the torque specifications for both the drain and fill plugs as 27 foot pounds for our 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser.

Remember that funnel with flexible tube?  Getting the oil out of the bottle and into the transfer case through that little hole can be tricky.  One of the advantages of the Hopkins FloTool 10704 Spill Saver Measu-Funnel is that the flexible tube funnel cap will screw directly on to the Amsoil quart bottles.  The cap has an open and close position preventing spills as you position the bottle and hose into place.

Squeezing out thick gear oil through the tube takes awhile.  It works best if you give the quart bottle a few long squeezes and than allow air to flow back into the bottle followed by a few more good squeezes.

The transfer case on our 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser holds 1.5 quarts.  Checking the fill level on flat ground is easy.  The oil should begin to run out or be just about to run out (within 5mm of the fill opening).toyota fj cruiser rear differential fluid level

Hand tighten the fill plug with a new gasket followed by torquing down the plug to Toyota specifications (27 ft./lbf for the 2007 FJ Cruiser).

Once everything is buttoned up, give the plugs one more wipe down and check for leaks followed by a drive around the block.  Double check for drips and leaks when the test drive is complete.

Keeping the power distributed to the front and rear axles in key in a 4×4 vehicle.  Ensuring the transfer case continues to do its job takes only a little maintenance in the form of an oil change.  Changing the gear oil in the transfer case of a Toyota FJ Cruiser is a simple maintenance job anyone can do with a few tools, a little know how and about 60 minutes.

Don’t forget to change the oil in the rear differential too while your at it. You can learn how with our rear differential oil change how to video.

voodoo blue fj cruiser driving through snow 4x4 trail

Off-Road Adventure Christmas List

happy holidays explore the new yearWhat would the Christmas season be without lists of cool off-road adventure stuff we hope to find under the tree when we come running down the stairs.  Like a giddy teenage boy on prom night believing anything is possible, we checked all around, asked friends and searched out the Internet for cool gifts and this is our ultimate 4×4 adventure Christmas list.

  • MSR XGK EX Extreme Condition Stove: This small stove is capable of blast furnace output and will boil water in under three minutes (kerosene fuel).  Easily serviceable in the field, this is the stove to bring along on a three month adventure into the Himalayas or an over night camping trip in the Hundred Acre Woods.
  • Maxtrax Vehicle Extraction: There are times a winch isn’t practical such as alone on the sand or snow field with nothing to anchor too.  Sure you can pull the spare tire, dig a hole and build a dead-man anchor or you can pull out Maxtrax, set them in place and drive on out.  Maxtrax makes vehicle recovery an easy one-man job.
  • Petzl E99 PG Tikka XP 2 Headlamp: You can never…  NEVER… have enough headlamps within easy reach.  Whether you’re making a rig inspection on the trail, gathering fire wood, finishing a late night field repair, trying to find stuff in your tent or looking for the perfect tree to relieve yourself after dark, a hands free light is a must.  And just to be clear, one headlamp is not enough.  Spelunkers bring a light, a backup light and a backup to their backup…  as a minimum.  Keep one or two in the rig, one with your camping gear, one with the cooking equipment, one in the emergency kit…  you get the idea…  Don’t forget lots of spare batteries with each.
  • ARB Fridge Freezer: There is nothing like pulling out a steak for dinner along with a cold drink on day five of an off-road adventure.  And what would single malt scotch be without ice as you sit around the fire with a fine cigar.  The ARB fridge freezer is a 12 volt, low amp draw solution to a cooler full of melted ice sloshing around in the back filled with soggy groceries.
  • Pelican 1630 Case: What better way to be ready to go on a adventure than always having your gear packed in waterproof cases waiting to be strapped to the roof or stowed in the back of the pickup.  These cases will keep everything inside dry and safe from the shocks and knocks of the road.  In the unlikely event of an emergency water landing, the Pelican Case will double as a flotation device.
  • SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger: Hula Betty gets a little anxious when we’re off the grid for several days.  The Spot lets you send an “OK” message telling folks you’re fine and not to worry.  And just in case your not ok, the Spot will let you send out an “SOS” with your exact GPS coordinates to the authorities, alerting them that you need help.  The Spot is satellite based so no worries if cell coverage is non-existence.
  • Gerber EVO Jr. Serrated Edge Knife: Remember how your grandfather always had a pocket knife on his belt.  He was prepared for any task that came up.  We’re not talking about a rebuild your engine multi-tool or a gator skinning 18 inch Rambo saber blade.  No, just a simple pocket knife with a good sharp blade that will effortlessly cut parachute cord, slice cleanly through a wad of duct tape or whittle a good sharp stick.  In the hands of anyone who understands the versatility of a pocket knife, the uses are endless.
  • 12-by-20 Super Heavy-Duty Tarp: What can you make out of a tarp?  How about a brooch, a hat, a pterodactyl… The uses for a tarp are up there with a good pocket knife or duct tape.  Many times when on an adventure we’ve turned a tarp into a makeshift shelter staying dry when the weather turned worse than expected.  A tarp also makes an excellent awning for an afternoon siesta or keeping the camp kitchen dry while cooking up a pot of chorizo chili.
  • Kermit Chair: Sure there are hundreds of camp chairs you can pick up at any supper store.  Hell, just look in the back of any soccer mom’s minivan and you’ll find half a dozen different choices.  But none of them are particularly comfortable.  The Kermit Chair lets you pack tight, without giving up on comfort, design and beauty.  No more slouchy seats and squishy backs that you slump into.  These chairs support your tired body as you relax around the fire.  These guys pay attention to details, the add-on cup holder, it took over a year to develop.
  • Wool Blanket: We always have an emergency kit in the rig where ever we go; work, grocery store, skying, or the Arctic.  And in that kit are two wool blankets.  Unlike cotton, wool blankets keep you warm even when they are wet.  They also make great insulated padding when your sleeping on the cold hard ground.  You can even do your best Clint Eastwood imitation (anyone remember “The Good, The Bad and The Ugly”) turning it into a poncho if you have to hike out.
  • Chaser Off-Road Trailer: A fully equipped off-road adventure trail with 46 cubic feet of storage, lots of ground clearance to keep up with the rig, fold out trailer top tent, separate deep cycle battery with solar charging panel for running a fridge and electronic gadgets, fold out kitchen or work area, 19 gallon water tank…  This is roughing it easy.  While it might be a stretch to shove under the tree but you could always leave it in the driveway and set a tree on top.
  • Katadyn Pocket Water Microfilter:  If you plan on a long off-road adventure, eventually you will come to the conclusion that you can not carry all the water you need.  Depending on were you are exploring you will find all sorts of nasty critters swimming around in the local water source (even if it comes out of a tap or clear mountain creek).  The Katadyn Pocket Filter will remove all giardia, fungi, parasites, cholera, typhoid, cryptosporidia, salmonella and other harmful bacteria, parasites, and germs by forcing the water through its ceramic 0.2 micron filtration element.  This is the water filter that is standard issue for international Red Cross field workers.
  • Where Is Joe Merchant? A Novel Tale: We all know I’m not much of a speller…  you’ve read this blog right?  Not much of a reader either…  Dyslexics untie!  But for any die hard Parrot Head this one is a must…  Frank Bama takes off on an adventure in his sea plane to find his ex-girlfriend’s brother, the notorious rock star Joe Merchant.  More a collection of short stories that expand on many of the “Fruit Cakes” song lyrics.  If this doesn’t get you in the mood for an adventure nothing will.
  • Danner Quarry GTX 6 Boots:  Hunting down firewood, hustling up hills to take a baring, running out a winch line, digging for buried treasure or kicking down doors to save the Swedish bikini full-contact origami team requires a sturdy set of boots .  More twisted ankles, bruised toes and blistered feet occur because of flimsy footwear.  Out on the trail is not the place to show off your pedicure in flip flops. Traipsing around in the bush with blisters is low on entertainment value and no way to go through life.  A good set of boots will keep your feet cozy, ankles supported and possibly save you from a snake bite.

This list could go on forever, but Santa only has so much room in his sleigh…  I wonder if it has 4WD… Maybe he should get a Defender 110 or how about a Land Cruiser FJ45.

What’s on your list?  Tell us your great ideas for gear under the tree, stuffed into a stocking or sitting out in the driveway.